When summer hits Oslo, we behave like lemmings, aggressively aiming for the waterfront. Most of us end up at places like Aker Brygge, an old shipyard turned into yuppieland in the Eighties. It is a mad fight for a table in the sun, the beer is Ringnes at outrageous prices.
The alternative is just across the inner harbour, where the sun is not blocked by high buildings. Among other vintage ships and boats, just beneath the old walls of Akserhus fortress, we find Tjeldsundfergen III, which used to do its duty as a ferry in Northern Norway.
The menu is simple – hot dogs or peel-your-own shrimps. They used to have interesting draught beers, but now it’s Ringnes pils and bayer on tap. But there is good stuff in the fridge.
A dozen German beers from small breweries. St. George, Krauss, Weltenburger. Even two smoked Bamberg beers from the Aecht Schlenkerla range.
No credit cards, a good symbol of the contrast to Aker Brygge. Reasonable prices. The clientele? Quite a few smokers. Adults, families, groups of friends. Some serious drinkers. Low life? No, but people who have lived their lives.
You can join the Friends of Tjeldsundfergen III for a small fee. You contribute to the upkeep of the ferry – and you get a litte discount on your beers…
Opening hours? Dependent on the weather.