Posts Tagged ‘Prague’

One more Prague pub

Zlaty RozenI’m strolling along Ceskoslovenske armady, the Czechoslovakian army street,  in northern Prague when I notice a sign promising beer from the Cerna Hora brewery. Since 1530, it claims. I had a few of their beers in Dublin recently, and that was really good stuff, so it is tempting to try them on their own turf. And, for once, there is a beer place that is not on ratebeer or in Evan’s book.

I decide to look inside the Zlaty Rozen, and it turns out to be a cellar restaurant. Five beers from the Cerna Hora on tap plus eight in bottles. And one of the beers on tap is the unpasteurized yeast beer.

There are families having a meal here, a few bureaucrats or businessmen. There is a sinister building on the other side of the street that looks like it belongs to the Ministry of Defense, so perhaps they work there.

Rather loud music. The decor is partly old brewery photos, partly seventies COMECON style.

The sklepni, the unfiltered beer, has a head like whipped cream. It is soft and smooth, then the hops creep up on you. Subtle, rather than an explosion of taste. Long lingering bitterness in the finish.

One more? The Granatis a pitch dark beer with a beige head. Roasted malt, bread crust, like when you left the bread in the oven ten minutes too long. A sooty sourness that plays along with the sweet malt. Truly great.

I must be on my way. I google the place, and see it has won several pub awards and has an excellent English web site. Not so obscure after all, eh? And no awards for the photos today, I did not have any intentions about focusing on the Chivas bottle!

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Right in the middle of Old Town Prague, quite close to the National Theatre, you’ll find the U Medvidku, a tiny brewpub you’ll have to know about to find. This is part of a bar/restaurant complex, so don’t just sit down at the first table, but follow the signs to the end of the dining room, then to another room and then, when you think you’ve lost your way, upstairs, where there is a cozy pub serving food and beer.

There is only one beer on draft here, Oldgott, brewed behind the counter. This is a chewy, grainy, sweet and sour amber beer. Frehness is the key word here, this is constantly being brewed in small batches. Flowery and dry finish. An outstanding beer. Too bad I had no time to linger, this would have been great for lunch and a few more beers.

Follow the signs to the souvenir shop, where you can pick up a few bottles of their strong bottled beer to take away. And suddenly you find yourself in a modern shopping centre, blinking at the bright light. A rough return to reality.

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One of the wonders of drinking in the Czech Republic is that you can get unpasteurized and unfiltered version of the well known beers, which really shows the difference between beer handled lovingly and beer being mass produced for a global market. Of course this is beer that does not travel well. There are similarities, like British cask ale and the wonderful Rodenbach Foederbier, where they had to figure out a distribution chain to keep it fresh and avoid the yeast running amok.

One place in Prague to enjoy the yeast beer or the kroužkovaný ležák is the Budvarka Dejvice. It is in Evan Rail’s book, and it was just five minutes walk from my hotel, close to the Dejvická Metro station in the area behind the castle.

This is a neighbourhood place, with the regulars sipping their beers. The place looks fairly new. There is a bar in front and it looked more restaurant-like in the back. The atmosphere is a bit gloomy, perhaps, but the service is swift and attentive.

The yeast lager? Grain, breakfast cereals. Chewy maltiness. Soft, and round, and then the bitterness is left on the tongue crying out for another sip.  I tried their dark lager, too, but this was no match. Malty, almost dessert-like sweetness. Not bad, but not outstanding like their flagship.

I wanted a snack, so I ordered stinking potatoes from the menu. These were deep fried, then gratinated with blue cheese. OK, but I’d like to develop this dish a bit further.


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A handy beer shop

If you leave the Strahovsky Klaster with its micro brewery and walk through the opening in the monastery wall facing Central Prague, you’ll find a cobbled road leading stright down the hill, with the castle to the left. Uvoz, it says on my map. Continue walking down, you’ll find the usual assortment of tourist traps. On the right you’ll eventually pass a bottle shop, where absinthe and other strong drinks are prominently displayed, but the shop window also boasted of a good beer range.

This is correct, they have probably close to a hundred beers in the back room. Not the place to go for obscure micros, and I’m sure the prices are inflated. But lots of fine beers in bottles and cans, some of them kept in the fridge for immediate consumption if you so wish.

I passed on the free samples of absinthe…

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Way up on the hill, even slightly above Prague castle, there is an old monastery complex, with its own church, art museum and a stunning old library. The Strahovsky Klaster is reachable by public transport, as there is a tram line passing at the back, but it was a fine morning stroll from my hotel, so you’ll have to figure out how to get there yourself.

There was an extra fee for taking photos of the library, so you’ll have to take my word for it being a beautiful place. No such photo regulation for another attraction within the walls, a micro brewery.

It was still early in the day, so there were few visitors in the brewpub. I imagine it is more crowded on summer afternoons, especially for tour groups who have been running up and down the hills all day. So, this brewpub is definitely on the tourist trail, and it has prices to match, they have even gone up after Evan’s guide book was published last year. If you, however, limit yourself to the smallest glasses, sampling them won’t bankrupt any foreign visitor.

Three beers available on my visit, an amber, a dunkel and a seasonal weisse.

The amber was a lovely reddish hazy beer. Sweet and nutty with a fine dry finish. The dunkel or tmavy was nutty and malty with a little coffee, some burned toast in the aftertaste. The weisse was a bit too much – lots of banana, giving a feeling of bubble gum which I really don’t like in beer.

You can buy bottles of fresh beer to take with you, they did not have any bottled varieties not currently on tap.

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Actually it is time for another beer, this time at a very different watering hole – the Pivovarský Klub. A fairly recent addition to the Prague drinking scene, this is both a bar, a restaurant and a beer shop. This has large windows opening on the street, giving a light and airy feeling. The place is rather popular on a sunday afternoon, but we find two chairs at the bar. Six beers from various micros are avialable, as well as an enormous range of bottled beers, both on shelves and in fridges. Glassware, too, if that is your thing. If you just have a few hours off in Prague due to other obligations, this is the place to get it all.

We go for the unfiltered Bernard 12°. Biscuits and grain, smooth, yet there is some bite, too. Long finish with sweetness and sourness playing along with each other.

To finish off, a beer from the sister establishment, the Piovarsky Dum. Also an unfiltered one, this is like a liquid mouthful of Saaz hops, summer meadows and flowers, a proper finish to a solid beer session.

I pick some bottles to take away from the hundreds available. It is time for some exercise, so we walk through town back to my hotel in the lovely summer weather.

Thank you for meeting me and showing me those hand picked spots, Max. Pleasant and interesting company, too – hope to see you again soon!

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I arrive at the spanking new airport terminal in Prague in the early afternoon, and I soon find myself on the bus towards the centre. No regards for speed limits here, a Swedish fellow passenger mutters that the driver is speeding like he has stolen the bus. Luckily I managed to get a seat. It is sweltering hot, and I am lucky that the bus stops right in front of my hotel. Time for a quick shower before I go down to the lobby to meet Max, my local guide and fellow beer blogger.

Max is not a Czech native, but an Argentinian who has settled here. It is extremely useful to have a guide with an in-depth knowledge of the local beer scene, who knows the language and, at the same time, speaks better English than I do.

And, even better, know his way around. Sure, I’ve got Evan‘s Good Beer Guide to Prague and the Czech Republic and a good map, but it is so much easier for once just to follow, down into the Metro, some stops down the line, up a flight of stairs, around a corner, run a few meters to catch a tram. No time wasted reading maps and figuring out ticket systems. This means that within half a hour or so we find ourselves in the cool vaulted cellar of Zlý Časy.

This pub had a sort of mini festival on, with rotating beers seldom seen in Prague. A few blackboards show us what’s currently on offer. This is not a place for thimble-sized samplers, so we soon have full half litre glasses in front of us, Střibro Argent having the honor of opening the ball. And what a beer for a day with 30 degrees in the shade – hazy amber, unfiltered. A hint of yeast, a little pleasant sourness, strong flowery aroma. Long lasting crisp and dry aftertaste.

We continue with a Pukrmistr Lezak (apologies for wrong or missing accents here, two days was a bit short for picking up the nuances!). This dark gold beer has a medium body, some caramel malt and aromatic hops. Well balanced and very pleasant.

One more? Sure, and some barbecue as well. Nicely grilled ribs, served with a basket of bread – no time wasted on raw or cooked greens here. The beer is a Beroun 11°. Hazy, with a crisp dryness and a herbal finish. The micro that makes this is located in a junkyard, but the beer is certainly no junk.

OK, then. One for the road. Kout NA Sumave 12°. Dark gold. Grainy, chewy, malty. Caramel, then a lovely bitter twist in the tail that lasts long after we have emerged into the brutal sunshine again. What next?



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