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Posts Tagged ‘Austmann’

I’ve lost count. We all have. There are new Norwegian breweries popping up every week or so, in the most unlikely places. The beers? The good, the bad and the bland. Don’t get me wrong, there is room for both the good and the bland.

I rarely write about the truly bad breweries. There are a few, usually there are people who wanted a novelty for their pub without any interest, let alone passion, for the styles, the nuances and the flavors of beer. This is a place where your are likely to find someone behind the bar who do not actually like beer, but they would happily down a Kopparberg alcopop or two.

Then you have breweries who aim for a local market, and who don’t want to alienate their public. But that is no excuse for being lazy. You can still aim for flavourful and balanced beers with more character than the industrials, who taste of summer meadows and amber grain. Beers that leave refreshment at the bottom of your half liter glass, yet leaves enough bitterness on your tongue to make you consider another round.

And I have respect for those who have ambitions. Who dare to take up a second mortgage on their house to expand production, who dare to quit their day job to follow their dream. There are a few in the second tier of the Norwegian craft breweries. Not up to the volume and experience of Nøgne Ø and Haandbryggeriet, Ægir, Kinn or Lervig. But some of them will soon be snapping at their heels.

Austmann, Lindheim, Nøisom, Ego, Balder, Voss, 7 Fjell and Veholt are the names I want to mention. Scattered around the coast, each with their own profile, which I hope they will continue to develop. Right now the supermarkets are eager for local beers, I also hope there will be enough outlets in pubs, bars and restaurants for these quality brews. It would probably make sense for some of them to cooperate on distribution,

Then we have another category where I find it hard to have much enthusiasm. These are beers that claim to have local or national identity, but where, like the industrial giants, the marketing is more important than the beer and the brewing. I have no membership in any nostalgic organisations condemning giant corporations, and I have no ill feelings towards those who drink their Stellas (as long as they don’t beat their wives). But I have some resentment towards those who take me for a fool.

There are several companies who are riding the crest of the beer boom right now who claim to be breweries, but are not. Local journalists write, starry-eyed, about local lads make good without asking where the beers actually come from. One of these companies was launched in the summer of 2012. The uncompromised nature of Norway in a bottle is their slogan. The problem? The beers are brewed in England.

Then there is a newcomer claiming allegiance to a gentrified but traditional industrial area of Oslo, launching industrial lagers in supermarkets and aiming for a slice of Carlsberg’s market. At last, Oslo gets its own beer, they boast. Christmas beer brewed with local ingredients, says one of the local newspapers.

Two problems. One: There are several breweries in Oslo, two of them have bottling lines and already distribute a range of beers. Two: They beers are, for the time being, not brewed in Oslo, but in Arendal, on the southern coast. Sure, they are building a brewery. But if they are half as successful as they hope to, they will not have the capacity to brew on a large-scale on the premises. So the local connection is dubious.

Carlsberg has a half-hearted attempt to cash in on the local card as well. They bought up a number of breweries around the country decades ago and closed them down, while keeping some of the brand names. They have the nerve to market beers like Nordlandspils or Tou as ”local beers”, overlooking the fact that they are all brewed in Oslo.

I don’t mind contract brewing. I don’t mind gypsy brewers. But when I buy food and drink I want honesty about where it is produced. Particularly when geography is a major part of the marketing campaign.

Bu maybe I’m old fashioned.

The real thing (at Austmann)

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As well as blogging, I also hang around various other beer sites. In Scandinavia, we tend to go for RateBeer rather than Beer Advocate, and I am approaching Norwegian beer rating number 1000 on RB. I am not much of a ticker any more, but I enjoy following the Norwegian scene.

There are new beers every week now, and I do not pay good money for beers from breweries that tend to let me down. So I could have reached this milestone before.

But which one to pick for the big number?

It could have been a beer from one of the forerunners of the Norwegian craft scene. Nøgne Ø, Haandbryggeriet, Ægir, Kinn or Lervig. One of the stars rapidly building a name like Austmann, Voss or Lindheim. A beer from one of my favourite brewpubs, Trondhjems Mikrobryggeri, Crowbar or Schouskjelleren.

But I picked Fjellbryggeriet Lun, a brown ale from a newcomer. They have made things even more difficult by going for the supermarket segment, staying below 4.7% ABV.

Lovely notes of roasted grain. Nuts, malt, coffee and chocolate. Clean and elegant. A most impressive beer from a new kid on the block. Well, they are new as commercial brewers. But their home page tells the story – 13 years as home brewers. So this is probably more than just beginner’s luck…

And located in the middle of the moutnains of Southern Norway, they also  fill in one of the blanks of the Norwegian beer map.

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Håndverkerstuene has gone through some changes of management, but the kitchen is still very good – and the beer range is better than ever. Some of the imports, particularly the Belgians and Americans, are gone, what you find is an outstanding range of Norwegian and Nordic beers. 12 craft beers on tap a few days ago, 10 of them Norwegian, the other two also Scandinavian.

Handverkerstuene taps

This year they are challenging Norwegian breweries to come up with the best beer matches for various menus. Eight breweries are taking part in the quarter finals, Austmann vs Aass, Ringnes vs Nøgne Ø, Lervig vs Haandbryggeriet and Ægir vs Kinn. 

 

The two best meet in the final 22 September. The juries are the paying guests on the evening of each round. The loser of the final will brew a special brew for the winner.

Details about the challenge, the menus and tickets at the Bryggeribråk web site.

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(English text at the end)

Vest for Trondheim sentrum går Bynesveien langs fjorden forbi gamle oljetankanlegg og andre industribygg. Dette har nok vært et naturskjønt område, men nå er det preget av mange tiår med nyttefunksjoner som ikke setter et så vakkert stempel på omgivelsene.

Skal du besøke Austmann bryggeri, er det lurt å ha gjort en avtale på forhånd. En litt dårlig merket avkjørsel ned mot fjorden ender i to stengte porter.

Jeg blir tatt godt imot av Anders Cooper og  Vinko Lien Sindelar.

Ved inngangen er det lager for flasker og fat, ved mitt besøk er det et svært begrenset utvalg. I begynnelsen av desember er det meningen at ølet skal være ute i hyller, kjøleskap og på kraner.

I neste rom står ølet og godgjør seg på 900-liters tanker, og innerst finner vi de tre åpne gjæringskarene. Utstyret er kjøpt fra Kinn, men er tilpasset en del. Gjæren høstes og brukes på nytt, og blir i stadig bedre form. Det blir naturligvis et overskudd av gjær, så her har trønderske hjemmebryggere gode muligheter.

Selv om Austmann bare har vært i drift siden i sommer, er det brygget et titall øl, og de fleste av dem er allerede å finne på polets bestillingsliste. Det er ikke sikkert at alle øltypene blir videreført, samtidig mangler det ikke på planer for neste år. Det finnes en kjelleretasje der det står noen kegs med imperial stout, og der vil det komme trefat av ulike slag for å lage surøl og annet spennende.  

De meste populære øltypene så langt har vært en belgisk ale, Tre gamle damer og Northumberland, en brown ale. For egen del vil jeg vel trekke frem Bastogne (saison) og Blåbærstout.

Så langt har salget gått bra, og med et etterlengtet flaskeanlegg (installert etter mitt besøk) vil det bli mindre slitsomt å dekke etterspørselen. Det er selvfølgelig vanskelig å beregne markedet før man setter i gang, og man er jo i stor grad låst til det utstyret man investerer i, i alle fall på kort sikt. Dagens lokaler har en del å gå på når det gjelder lagerplass, og utstyret gir mulighet for kontinuerlig brygging, eventuelt ved å dele uken i to skift.

Jeg skrev innledningsvis om at industriområdet ikke nødvendigvis er det mest idylliske. Samtidig er det et potensiale for å sette opp bord og benker og ha servering nede på kaien. Og derfra er det en praktfull utsikt mot Munkholmen og byen. Hvem vet, kanskje det kan gjøre som på the Kernel i London, der man møtes på mandag formiddag for å ta en øl og spise frokost?

Selv om du ikke har veien innom Trondheim, er det vel verdt å prøve øl fra Austmann. De fleste ølene deres er å få på polet, og det er bare å be din favorittpub om å ta inn fatøl fra dem også. Jeg tror dette er en av nykommerne som vil klare seg i et stadig tøffere marked.

Many of the new breweries in Norway start on a very small scale, peddling their beers to local shops or bars. Austmann bryggeri in Trondheim, established this summer, have bigger ambitions. With loans from family and friends and a distribution deal with Beer Enthusiast, they managed to get a number of their beers listed with the state Vinmonopolet,  meaning that they have a full national distribution.

The brewery is located in an industrial area not far from Central Trondheim with a nice view of the Trondheim fjord.

The beer range includes Belgian ales, a saison, a blueberry stout, two IPAs, an amber ale, a wheat ale and three Christmas beers. The best sellers will stay on, others will be replaced with new beers.

The bottled beers are vital for distribution in the Vinmonopolet shops, but key kegs are important for the pub market.

The beers are brewed in open vessels bought from Kinn brewery, and they are well worth trying out. As Beer Enthisiast are now establishing themselves in several other coutnries, that might mean that some of their beers could turn up, at least in Sweden.

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