Posts Tagged ‘Altbier’

The direct flights to Barcelona were very expensive, so it was a matter if finding the most convenient stopover. Dusseldorf has a compact airport and a city centre just 20€ away by taxi.

This being a family outing, I did not have time to make a crawl of the traditional Altbier brewpubs I have visited before. They seemed to do a roaring trade on a sunnu Saturday afternoon. Instead I made a stop at the Kurtze brewery, tucked away on a quiet street in the Altstadt.
As the only customer, I was invited to a tour of the premises. They aim for a younger crowd than the traditional breweries. If the others have been around for centuries, you have to find your own niche.
The beer is a bit different, too, less bitter than the others. It is not aged in oak barrels, but distributed through pipelines to a clear glass tank at the bar.
Not an institution as yet, but well worth a stop if you are in town.


Read Full Post »

Zum Uerige sign

Zum Uerige was the fourth and final of the breweries I had planned to visit in Düsseldorf. Sure, there are others, but I did not want to be too late for my flight. There was another obstacle, namely the Christmas market spread over much of the old town. I did not see any stalls selling beer, but they were doing a brisk trade in mulled wine and cider. Handicrafts and sweets, too, sausages and chickens.

The brewery/restaurant is similar to the Füchschen in that it is a labyrinth of rooms. Some for eating, some for drinking. Some for sitting down, some for standing up. Some for smoking, some for live music. You find a place to stand or sit, then catch the eye of a waiter. He brings you a continuing supply of Alt glasses. If you sit at a table, he marks your beer mat, if you stand up, he uses chalk marks on the walls.

The place is packed with families and groups of friends, it is very charming. Brass reliefs, proverbs in dialect on the walls, lots of old polished wood. I would not mind spending a whole evening here.

The beer?

Wood, smoke, prunes and pepper, according to my notes.

Time to find a taxi.

In hindsight, I should have had a meal at one of the beer places. Because the over-priced chicken and rice dish I had at the airport was hardly edible.

Read Full Post »

The next stop, the third brewpub in an hour, is jus a few meters down the street. Several rooms in a quite bright and airy place. Lots of small details when you look closer – wood, tiles, etched glass.The wooden barrels meet you by the entrance, the waiters shuttle back and forth with their trays. This line of work seems to be reserved for adult males in Düsseldorf. Polite and efficient, I wouldn’t guess how many small glasses are served on a busy Sunday like this.

All tables seem to be booked, so I stand shoulder to shoulder with some locals and enjoy a few glasses. The beer?  The house Alt is the standard here, too. Very complex. Oak, vanilla, peaches, pepper. In a way it reminds me of more daring British bitters.


Read Full Post »