Archive for the ‘Dirndl’ Category

According to the newspaper, Extreme weather destroys road and rail

My pleasant bicycle ride to the St Astra im Feld brewery made me wish for more, and after leaving the Seefranzl brewery, I set out first towards the south and then eastwards. First along a busy road between fields and meadows, then on a small road through the forest with hardly any traffic. Flat and easy going, it took less than an hour.

The Bartewirt  is located at the village Kreuzstrasse, literally meaning Crossroads, where several country roads have met for a very long time. A splendid place for an inn, then and now. It is not directly on the Autobahn, but there is lots of traffic here between Munich – half an hour to the north – and the Alps and lakes to the south.

The Bartewirt  means The Landlord with the Mustache, which, according to the chatty menu set up as a newspaper, was a historical person.

The Bartewirt belongs to the Graf Arco family brewery, which, in one form or another, have been in the business since 1630. They used to brew at several facilities, including the nearby even smaller village of Valley. That is history, but at least they have kept the inn. Lots of details at their web site, if you are interested.

Rustic wooden interior plus a beer garden in the courtyard. Not a massive set up, but you still have the choice between the self-serve benches or table service. I arrive before the evening trade picks up. Pleasantly quiet, except for the rather busy road, which, on the other hand, is the reason the place is there. Chestnut trees.

Bikers, working men in their overalls enjoying their Scweinehaxe,  families. Nor Dirndl, no tourists, no menu in English. The menu is printed as a newspaper, but there are a dozen dishes of the day, too. There is even some fish if you have reached your quota of meatfor the week. I limited myself to some pressed and pickled pork, seved with a lovely Austrian pumpkin seed oil.

The Helles Kellerbier has bread crust, discreet yeast and a little sting of hops. A bit too soft, perhaps, but a very honest session beer.

The Birnbacher Schwartzbier is even better. Cola color. Not of the sticky sweet kind. Plenty of malt, sure, but enough roasted grain to add elements of coffee and make a balance between the sweet and dry.

As I only have to push my bike some meters to the railway station, I decide to try their Doppelbock, too, the Arcator. Deep dark red, beige fluffy head. Full malty kick. Roasted malt, aromatic hops. Pleasant, if not stellar. Time to find my way back to Munich.

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Smack in the middle of Munich, a sones throw from the Glockenspiel, the Cathedral and all that, Schneider Weisse have set up a pub. Their brewery is not in Munich, but one cannot really blame them for wanting a part of the trade.

They are a very well respected brewery, particularly their Eisbock varieties have an international following. They are trying to think out of the box, cooperating with Brookly Brewery, trying out single malt wheat beers and so on.

The tables in front of the house hardly count as a beer garden, but that’s the way it is. And they are hardly to blame for somone, probably the city authorities, digging up the street right in front of them. A few frightened bushes keep the cars away from the drinkers and diners.

The posters surrounding their outdoor tables recommend trying their Sommerweisse.

You realise this comes in a big bottle ? the waitress asks.

It’s fine by me.

It comes in an ice bucket, and is served in a wine glass. Hoppy, refreshing. Your standard Bavarian Hefeweissen is a meal in itself, this has a lighter touch. Apple cider, a hint of sourness

It was not in the printed menu, though, and the ice bucket comes at a hefty price, as I discover when I ask for the bill.

Should you have this one instead of lunch?

Why not enjoy the exclusivity of this beer and then find a bakery shop that sells Brezl with cream cheese and chives for an Euro or two you’re on a tight budget? No need to seek out the American burger emporiums across the street when you’re in Germany.

No Dirndl, no Lederhosen. Maybe inside, I did not look around.


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Yet another beer garden, this time a brewpub. They hand bottle a few of their beers, but you have to look up the retailers at theri web site.

The Forschungsbrauerei  means The Research Brewery, and they have been at it since 1930. I do not really know the results of the research, my sources tell me their beers are the same every summer. They are closed in the winter months.

The Summer Hell comes in a ceramic mug, and it is fresh and hoppy, tingling a bit on the tongue. Fresh and hoppy for Bavaria, that is.

Quiet in the early evening, friends chatting quietly.

I order a plate of bread, cheese and cold cuts, and to wash it down, a Pilsissimus. More of a Dunkel than a Pils, I’d guess. Dark brown, rich and malty.

There is a Blond Bock and a Naturtrub Dunkel, too, though I did not try any of them.

Good service, nice Dirdls, not far away from Central Munich. Not a must go, really.

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The Brauerei Gasthof Lohof has possibly been a brewery, once upon a time. Now it is one of a number of inns and restaurants run by the the Schlossbrauerei Haimhausen,  of which I have no objection. The brewery is not far away, so it is a very local setup. Von die Heimat for die Heimat  – From the community  for the community  is their slogan.

It was almost 30 degrees in the sahde, so I did not venture inside, but found a seat in the beer garden. A half liter of Helles slides down without any edges, just the thing while looking through the menu.

Heavily slanted towards everything porky, but there are some daily specials that are more sophisticated. I go for the Münchner Schnitzel, the local twist is mustard mixed int the coating. Very nice, but the dark Kellerbier I had along with it was a bit too much on the sweet side for my liking, reminding me of a Russian kvass.

Very quiet, family friendly.

Don’t go here for amazing beers made with fruit and berries you never heard of. Not for beer aged in champagne barrels and refermented with yeast strains from ancient Egypt. Go for the real thing.

No dirndls, though.

Three stops  on the S8 train from the airport among green fields and rural calm. If you go in the other direction, it is 25 minutes from downtown Munich. The adress is  Südliche Ingolstädter Straße 1, 485716 Unterschleißheim, Deutschland. Try that one after a few beers!

And if you need a room for the night close to the airport, this is a splendid alternative to sterile chain hotels.

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