Archive for March 5th, 2013

I’m not too fond of crowded bars late at night. With a bunch of friends it can, of course, be great fun. But when I travel, it’s a quiet glass or two in the afternoon that often pleases me the most. Many pubs and bars stay closed at this time, waiting for the evening trade. That might be sensible, it does not make much sense to pay salaries to idle staff.

In Berlin, there are places open all day, some only in the evening. On a chilly February day, I found one that opened at five in the afternoon.

Max und Moritz is a classic Berliner Wirtshaus, dating back to 1902 with lots of the details intact. A bar area as you enter, dining tables at the back. When I look at their website, I see that there is a ballroom in the building, seating 100 diners and available for cultural events. Tango lessons on Sundays, if I remember correctly.

Two ladies behind the bar, one of the regulars conversing with them. Polite and friendly service.

Traditional cooking, not surprisingly heavy on the pork, but even some salads and other vegetarian options. Too early for supper, but certainly worth considering another day.

Two  beers stand out in their drinks list, one unfiltered, one clean and crisp pilsener. The Zwickl  is specially brewed for them, and is called Kreuzberger Molle, which I believe is brewed at the Südstern micro, not far away. Chewy cereals, honey, flowery hops. Pleasant drinking, but not really exciting. I prefer the Barre Brau, a German pilsener at its best. Clean and crisp. Herbs and grass, dry finish. Unpretentious and refreshing.

And, if you need one more for the road, there is a Kneipe next door that boasts of a Duckstein Dunkel on tap. Hm.

Located in Kreuzberg, just a few minutes from the Moritzplatz U-bahn stop, so it’s just ten minutes from the Alexanderplatz. And I must mention that I would never have found my way to this one if it wasn’t for the Around Berlin in 80 Beers book. Btw Max and Moritz are two characters from a series of books for children dating back to the mid-nineteenth century.

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