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Archive for the ‘craft beer’ Category

 

 P1030492

(English summary at the end)

Alle mikrobryggerier er ikke velsignet med en flott beliggenhet, selv om det ikke nødvendigvis har betydning for kvaliteten på ølet. Det brygges mye godt øl i anonyme industriområder der det er lite aktuelt å innrede et lokale for skjenking av brygget.

Samtidig er det en utfordring å skille seg ut. Det er mange som brygger de samme øltypene, og selv om original design på etiketten og lokal oppslutning kan bidra til salget, er det jo flott om man har en historie å fortelle og kan knytte øl til historie, tradisjoner og lokal mat.

Klostergården Håndbryggeri fyller alle kriterier for hvordan disse faktorene bidrar til å skape unike produkter.

Beliggenheten er øya Tautra, som har broforbindelse med Frosta, Trøndelags kjøkkenhage. På eiendommen er det til og med en klosterruin som viser forhistorien for dette kulturlandskapet. Ved siden av gårdsdrift konserverer man frukt, bær og grønnsaker. Det tilbys overnatting, og det er servering av mat og drikke både innendørs og utendørs.

 Brygger Jørn Andersen kan by på en rekke ølsorter i butikkstyrke som man kan kjøpe med hjem. Wit, porter, pale ale, bitter og blond. Flotte øl, som kan måle seg med det beste av øl med denne styrkegraden.

Norsk alkohollovgivning gjør det ikke mulig å kjøpe med de mest spennede ølene – så de må man smake på stedet. En imperial stout hadde en flott lakriskarakter. En Dobbel IPA var velbalansert og forførende lettdrikkelig.

Men det som var verdt turen alene var en flaske Sorn, hentet opp fra kjelleren slik at den ikke skulle være kjøleskapskald. Jeg har ventet lenge på at noen skulle gjøre øl brygget på stjørdalsmalt mer tilgjengelig, og her er det endelig et slikt eksempel. 25% av malten i dette brygget er altså røykmalt fra Stjørdal. Det er klart at det setter sitt preg på ølet, men samtidig er det balansert. Røyk, sot og sødme gir en spesiell smaksprofil – håper at tilgangen på malt gir mulighet for å brygge dette i kvanta store nok til å tilby dette både til polutsalg og serveringssteder i regionen. Sorn er brygget i samarbeid med Inderøy Gårdsbryggeri. 

Den største utfordringen i dag er å få brygget nok øl til å få dekket etterspørselen. Nytt utstyr gjør at man kommer opp i batcher på 1000 liter mot dagens 350. Og for den tålmodige kan det opplyses at man også er i gang med eget brenneri, som planlegger lansering av whisky om tre år. Og innkjøp av eikefat gjør også at vi kan glede oss til fatlagrete øl i tiden fremover.

Jeg spiste ikke middag på stedet, men den nylagde fiskballen som raust ble servert som en smakebit fra kjøkkenet gjør at det absolutt står på programmet neste gang.

 P1030497

 

At the most scenic spot you can imagine, in the middel of the Trondheim fjord, with green meadows and monastery ruins, you find Klostergården Håndbryggeri. Besides farming and brewing, there is also a café, a shop with local food, including beer, and some rooms for rent.

Brewer Jørn Andersen offers a broad range of beers. The ones below 4.7 % ABV are available in the shop, the stronger beers have to be consumed on the premises.

This region has a long tradition of farmers brewing their own beers, malting barley grown on their own farm, smoking the malt to give a unique flavour. Klostergården brews their won version of this, adding 25% of this smoked malt in the Sorn beer. The result is, of course, a compromise – you do not get an over the top smoked beer, but a balanced, quite sweet brew with lots of character with plenty of smoke and soot both in aroma and palate.

Klostergården is approximately a one hour drive from the main North-South road between Trondheim and Northern Norway. It is well worth the time, and the accommodation is reasonably priced if you want to indulge in the stronger beers. Expanded capacity will hopefully give at least a regional distribution for the beers. And if you want something truly exotic, their first batch of whisky is maturing in oak barrels, due to be released in April 2016.

P1030496

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The Oslo beer scene was given four pages in one of the publications of the Aftenposten newspaper yesterday, with Crowbar prominently featured. It is also available online.

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P1030335

In addition to the Berlin U-bahn, which is an underground network, there is also the S-bahn, which in the central areas of the city is elevated above street level, giving splendid views . Well, there is not much time to enjoy the view from Hauptbahnhof to Bellevue, it’s the next stop. Cross the bridge and walk up a short street, and you find the Berlin Bier Shop.

Bier jenseits des Mainstreams is the motto on their web page. Sure, you can stock up on all the bocks, helles, pils etc.  you’d want. But the reason to go here is for the more sophisticated stuff.
They cater for two types of customers: Germans who want interesting imports and tourists who want interesting German beers.  The imports include the big names from Denmark and the US.  Mikkeller sells well, the customers have often visited Copenhagen and know the price level. Slightly lower alcohol taxes and VAT equals more or less the cost of distribution, meaning you pay more or less the same for a bottle of Mikkeller as you would in Denmark. Students from the brewing college are eager to get new stuff coming in, particularly on-offs like the new yeast series.
For foreign visitors you are able to get some real treats. New beers from Berlin gypsy brewer Schoppe Bräu. Craft beers from the Czech Republic. I had some serious problems making up my mind. My suitcase was already bulging, and I knew I was in for a scolding from the Lufthansa check-in staff.
But I could not resist a barrel aged dark Gose. And a Berliner Weisse brewed with smoked malt. How is that for innovation?

Friendly and polite service. Once again my apologies for my German. The vocabulary is coming along fine, thank you. But the nuances of grammar and the use of the polite Sie instead of du leaves a lot to be desired. Other visitors don’t need to worry. They even use English on their web pages.

This is a must stop on a Berlin beer tour. A serious beer shop. Like Johnny’s Off Licence in Rome or Ølbutikken in Copenhagen.

P1030333

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Peter M. Eronson runs the Swedish beer blog Fat & Flaska, and he has published a list of the 100 best sellers in Sweden’s Systembolaget. The ranking reflect sales in Swedish Kronor, but the right column shows the volume in liters. The category includes beer, ciders and alcopops.

This shows, that, for all the talk about craft taking over the world, it is all about pale lagers. The only exceptions, Newcastle Brown Ale (64), Falcon Bayersk (65), Brooklyn Lager (74) and Innis & Gunn Oak Aged Beer (88) are not something I’d go out of my way for, either.

This also show the contrast between the Swedish and the Norwegian markets. The beers below 4.7 % would be sold in Norwegian supermarkets, so you’ll not find them in the Vinmonopolet stores. And the super strength lagers are hardly to be found here.  I suspect the Norwegian tramps either smuggle strong beer from Sweden or stick to vodka.

Call me a snob, but I pass on the red rhubarb flavoured cider (82).

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Many European cities can boast of food markets filled with stalls of proud producers. I have not seen them all, but I tend to seek them out, in Florence and Gothenburg, in London and Barcelona.

Berlin can boast of a number of them, although some have obviously been destroyed by war, neglect or urban developement. The Eisenbahnhalle in Kreuzberg has long traditions, but it only in the recent few years that this has been revived, focusing on local produce and everything green. And one of the local producers is a brewer, Johannes Heidenpeter.

Markthalle signThe market is only open on Fridays and Saturdays but, alas, I was only arriving on a Sunday. Well, there is always Facebook.

I asked if there was any way of trying their beers during mys visit, without being too optimistic. I got a message back from Johannes, saying that he would be brewing on Monday and would be happy to have a chat over a beer when he was finished. Would six o’ clock be convenient?

Of course.

The market hall was easy to find, and Johannes invited me down to the basement, where he was finishing his brewing for the day.

Johannes  started the brewery in September 2012. He has no formal brewing background, but has been a home brewer for quite some time. He brews 300 liter batches, which may be stretched to 450 liters by using the equipment to the maximum. Most of the beers are sold on tap from his tiny bar in a corner of the market hall, though some are hand bottled for people to take home. Business is expanding, meaning he gradually spends more time brewing and less on what he calls his pay job.

The beers fit in well with the general concept of the market – local food where the producers have direct contact with the consumers.

There is, obviously a challenge in offering inventive beers in a market where the day-to-day choice is between a Dunkel and a Helles. Johannes aims to have, as a standard, a pale ale that is not too extreme, but it is still a departure from the German norm. He is constantly adjusting the recipe, the version I got to taste had Cascade as the dominating hop. It had a fine spectrum of flowers and herbs and a splendid drinkability – just the type of session beer you should find in a place like this. I also tried a poster, soft and smooth, yet with lots more character than the bland big names.

The aim is to brew full-time, and there are plans for various events – a small beer festival is also in the making.

Heidenpeters is a brewery that stands out among the micro breweries of Berlin, daring to think outside the box. It will be interesting to follow in the years to come, I will certainly be back the next time I’m in town.

Get in touch if you plan to visit. There are a few hand bottled beers available, but they tend to sell out, so ask Johannes to set aside some for you.

If I have gotten some of this totally wrong, I apologize. Most of the conversation took place in German, and I must state my admiration for the brewer who opened his doors and carried on patiently while his guest struggled to get his message across with total disregard for grammar and polite use of the language.

Cooking up a new batch of Heidenpeters beer

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  • Nøgne Ø is cutting back on the import side of their business, which means there are new distributors for breweries like Mikkeller.
  • Schouskjelleren brewer John Hudson is moving on after two years, an Italian brewer will take his place.
  • John will be brewing at Nydalen Bryggeri og Spiseri also in Oslo, an offshot from Amundsen Bryggeri og Spiseri. A brewpub, but they will also brew keg beers and plan to bottle beers as well. They aim to open in May.
  • Lots of new beers at Crowbar in Oslo, there seems to be a new of their own brews on every week. Right now there is an interesting series of experimental IPAs.
  • ABC brewing, the gypsy brewery from the west coast of Norway, now has more of a national distribution. Their first beers are on tap at Schouskjelleren now.
  • Interesting to see that most new bars and restaurants in Oslo now boast of their broad range of beers.

P1020915

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So, out into the cold dusk to try out a few brewpubs. Google maps showed that there was a direct line from Alexanderplatz to the U-bahn stop near the Rollberg micro. This brewery is actually located inside the old Berliner Kindl brewery. Very hard to find, the only sign of activity in the area was a go cart center. We finally spotted a sign that, due to a broken pipe, it was closed that weekend. Next time, perhaps you could update the fancy web site with some info?

Half an hours walk from Rollberg there is a brewpub I have visited some years ago, Südstern. Time to rest weary feet, have a beer and a Flammeküche. Not so. A sign on the door here, too. Today we close at 18.00.

The subway brought us back to the center of town, at least public transport is speedy and easy to use in Berlin.

The  banners of Brauhaus Lemke invited us in, and we were warmly welcomed and half a liter of their Zwickl soon appeared at the table. The Eisbein and the Schnitzel were also well worth the wait. Lemke is in the railway arches, a stone’s throw from Alexanderplatz. Their beers are not particularly inventive, but they are among the best in town. The photo below is from an earlier visit – on a warmer day.

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The lineup for this year’s event in Drammen (30 minutes from Oslo) is more or less ready.

This year it takes place on Friday, May 24 (16-22) and  Saturday, May 25,  (12-22).

Confirmed participants so far:

  • Aass Bryggeri (N)
  • Bierbrouwerij Emelisse (NL) @Rest_emelisse
  • Birrificio Toccalmatto (IT) @Toccalmatto
  • Brouwerij de Molen (NL) @molenbier
  • De Struise Brouwers (B)
  • Haand (N)
  • Lervig Aktiebryggeri (N)
  • LoverBeer (IT) @LoverBeerBrewer
  • Magic Rock (UK) @MagicRockBrewCo
  • Monks, Stockholm (SE) @Monksevent
  • Naparbier (ES) @Naparbier
  • Närke Kulturbryggeri (SE)
  • Partizan (UK) @partizanbrewing
  • Picobrouwerij Alvinne (B) @alvinnebeer
  • S:t Eriks Bryggeri (SE)
  • Ægir Bryggeri (N)

I particularly look forward to the return of Magic Rock, the new London brewery Partizan and Lervig from Stavanger, Norway. Not to mention Alvinne, Emelisse, de Molen and the rest of the stellar lineup.

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I don’t cover the European beer scene as comprehensively as I used to. There are several reasons for this – I don’t travel as much as before, there are others out there with local knowledge which does the job nowadays, and I don’t have the time to keep up with it all.

On the other hand, much of the best brews of the world are now available at my doorstep (Well, here in Oslo). The new wave of brewpubs are not afraid of letting the competition in, meaning we get access to Swedish, Danish, British and Italian beers along with their own offerings.

One of the relatively new stars on the European beer map is the Italian Revelation Cat. I first encountered them at the Copenhagen Beer Festival a few years ago, and their beers are now often available at Schouskjelleren in Oslo. They specialize in lambics, brewed in Belgium, barrel aged, blended and bottled in Rome. Lambics is perhaps using a term that is a bit too narrow, we are talking barrel aging a wide spectrum of beers, using barrels previously storing wines and spirits from around the globe.

Revelation Cat has so far been a contract/phantom brewery, meaning they don’t own their own plant, apart from a small pilot brewery in Italy. Their beers have been brewed in the Netherlands, Belgium and the UK.

They have recently bought brewing equipment in England, and they are currently launching a range of hoppy beers more inspired by American and British styles. When I was asked by owner Alex Liberati if I would be interested in sampling some of the beers from the new range, I did not hesitate.

To make  a long story short, a box of beers has been spending Christmas in the warehouse of FedEx, but yesterday it was delivered to my office. The box was not that big, but it was crammed full of beers. No possibilities of opening them this week – but I’ll tell you when I do.

The customs fees did not ruin me, either.

P1030031

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P1020915

(English summary at the end)

Det luktet fremdeles maling, og håndverkerne var ikke helt ute av lokalene da Crowbar, nok en bryggeripub i Oslo, hadde snikåpning en ukes tid før jul. Det gjenstår med andre ord en del arbeid, men det gjelder særlig andre etasje, der det blir matservering.

Hoveddelen av dette utestedet, inkludert bryggeri og lagringstanker, er på plass, og det var også de første tre egne bryggene. Brygger Dave Gardonio, som har erfaring blant annet fra Ægir, ønsker først og fremst å brygge balanserte og velsmakende øl, og ser det ikke som et mål i seg selv å være i den ekstreme enden av noen skala. Det brygges 500 liters batcher, men han er redd kapasisteten kan bli for knapp allerede fra begynnelsen.

Som sagt tre egne øl for salg:

Crow’s Scream Ale, en cream ale på 4.7% er velbalansert med en nøtteaktig smak og fin tørr ettersmak.

Santa Crows er en maltrik amber ale med finstemte kryddertoner, den holder også 4,7%

Den mest spennende av de tre premiereølene var Karasu, en meget behagelig stout som er tilsatt litt wasabi, som gir den litt ekstra spiss som kler den svært godt. Den er litt sterkere enn de to andre, og  var absolutt et øl å komme tilbake til.

Men man trenger ikke holde seg til det som er brygget på stedet, det er 20 kraner på plass med spennende øl, stort sett nordiske. Nøgne Ø, Evil Twin, Mikkeller, Huvila og Håndbryggeriet var på tavlen. I tillegg er det også et spennende flaskeutvalg.

Beliggenheten er glimrende, i Torggata 32, noen få minutters gange fra Schouskjelleren eller Mathallen. Offisiell åpning rett over nyttår.

Yet another brewpub in Oslo, Crowbar.  Official opening in January, but it opened for a sneek peek this week. Canadian brewer Dave Gardonio is recruited from Ægir, and wants to go for honest and well balanced beers. Three of their own beers on tap, with more to come – and a dozen selected Scandinavian beers on tap as well. Bright and airy, and there is a patio at the back for the summer months as well. Very conveniently situated for a pub crawl.

P1020919

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