Post 231, in which the Hero is introduced to a Galway Hooker
April 25, 2008 by knutalbert
It had to happen sooner or later. I travel a lot, and while I do not actively seek out the seedy parts of town, I sometimes stumble across them. I booked a Brussels hotel on the web focusing on the rate and proximity to the centre. It was only when I returned there in the evening I saw what kind of neighbourhood I was in, with ladies winking at me from every window.
I navigated through the streets of the Hague looking for a brewpub last year, and encountered a very non-inviting street that made me speed up a bit and find another route back later.
But, generally, I am not even approached by ladies offering their services. More often, in any city, people walk up to me and ask directions. In Finnish, Italian or Greek. I suppose with my glasses, my hair a bit long and a slightly bewildered look on my face I look like a graying teacher, someone it is safe to approach and ask for the fastest route to the railway station.
I was, therefore, anticipating a new experience when my fellow beer blogger the Beer Nut offered to introduce me to a Galway hooker. I have chatted with the Beer Nut quite frequently over the last year or two, but we have actually met in person only once, on neutral territory. I do not know the customs of the Emerald Isle too well, and I would certainly not want to offend the natives.
It turned out the Galway Hooker is a beer. And it is named after a boat. (I don’t know where the boat got its name!) And, while beers with slightly risque references often turn out to be boring, this turned out to be the best beer I have had on tap in Ireland. It is a lovely IPA, refreshing with lots of hops, grass, flowers and bitterness. A long lingering finish.
The place where they serve this beer, alongside a good range of imports and a number of Irish micro brews is the Bull and Castle. This is a two story pub, with the upstairs function room transferred into a mock German beer hall, complete with tables and benches.
Apart from the Beer Nut, I had the chance to meet up with some other members of the Irish Craft Brewer group, but I’m afraid I had to make my excuses fairly early in the afternoon. I managed to sample the Galway Hooker Coffee Porter as well as two beers from Franciscan Well, too. And even the Brooklyn/Schneider Hopfen Weisse, who the landlord kindly let us taste. Too little time, good company, hope I have some more time on my next visit! One thing is for sure, this pub should be the first watering hole to aim for when arriving in Dublin.
I love the long tables and benches. In my old hometown of Halifax, this was common but here in central Canada unknown. If it were not for the long tables of my old home sea port, it would not have been possible for me to have witnessed an undergrad soccer playing lassie pal of mine walk down a table top one Friday night expertly kicking a succession of empty glasses to be smashed on the stone wall beyond.
The management of the Bull & Castle take a dim view of punters singing or thumping the tables. Your lassie wouldn’t have lasted long here, Alan. Especially not if I’m trying to enjoy the company of a Hooker nearby (which I usually am).
I definitely second the point about how important this place is for anyone looking for decent beer in Dublin. There is simply nowhere else like it.
Knut, I’m not surprised at all by your apparent trustworthiness and approachability. I’ve seen you make a succinct gesture which perfectly, and silently, conveyed the message: “If you don’t get over that railway footbridge in the next 25 seconds, you will be spending the night in Hackney.”
I don’t know where the word hooker comes from either, but it predates the name for easy women. They used to be pronounced identically, but I’ve heard that the Irish today exaggerate the length of the oo in hooker to distinguish it from the other hooker. (Nó cad a deir tú, a Bheer Nuit?)
I think the vowel lengthening may just be a feature of the Galway accent. Hooker meaning “prostitute” is an Americanism and not in common usage in Ireland. It’s used far more in reference to the position of the same name on a rugby field than any other, er, gentleman’s pastime.
Hmm. I know not everyone is as excited about this kind of thing as me, but that’s a *lovely* glass your beer was served in.
They are fiercely proud of their helba glasses at the B&C. So proud, in fact, that they’ve jumped through all the legal hoops necessary when one is selling beer by the half-litre, rather than the pint — signage, price structure, and so on. You can also buy your beer by the masskrug, should you wish.
heard great things about The Franciscan Well guys, i’ll be looking for thier wares the next time i’m over there. great post!